Porcupine Mountains

Locals call these "mountains" the "Porkie's." I didn't actually see any porcupines or mountains for that matter, but that wasn't the point in the first place. So what was? The wilderness state park, which are two titles I've never encountered together (a state park usually having much pavement and little solitude), is a rarity anywhere in America. Quick stats for the place: 59,000 acres of old-growth (uncut) hardwood forest abutting the south shore of Lake Superior in the Western UP of Michigan. That's why I traveled the 130 miles to get there. Walking the trails, which were a dream come true compared to the brush of the Border Route, was like walking in Northwest CT in the 1500's. Grizzly red maples stood side by side with arcing red oak, birch and elm. Hemlocks, the likes of which we think only grow out west, exist here in almost pure stands. In a few marshy spots white pines grew to impressive heights as well. Birds were plenitful, as was the foliage. Too bad there aren't more places like this.

Cabins for rent were numerous throughout the wilderness. A perfect place to shack up for a winter trip. All of the above and below pics were taken on the first day of what was planned as a three day trip. Toward dusk on the first night, the wind picked up fierce, smashing heavy clouds together like ice floes. You learn from experience. This was definitely one of those times. The long range forecast for Duluth was sun and mid fifties for five plus days. That first night I awoke to rain pattering the tent, and by daybreak it was obvious these were no passing showers. Packing up proved wet and arduous. Chuck stood in the rain as I rolled up and stowed the tent. We were a bit miserable. I was debating whether to stay the course, traveling ten more miles to the next camp along a high escarpment, when I met a couple coming across the valley I had camped in. They claimed the forecast called for more rain, all day and tomorrow, in fact. It hit me that there is an obvious difference between the north and south shore of Superior. I was on the "Oregon" side, the lee side of clouds, lake effect weather and moist instability. Duluth lay on the north shore, the continental side, recieving most of its weather in semi-predictable patterns from the plains. Lesson learned. Chuck and I reluctantly turned in the direction we came. To take the dog, who would be soaked through within the hour, force him on ten more miles, then stick him into the tent wet and stinking to shiver through the night, which was bottoming out around forty, just wouldn't have been fair. We turned and bossed through nine miles of undulating hills in about four hours, maybe a bit less. I haven't been sore like that in a while. I'll have to make it back here again under better circumstances.